Short Summary on the Kokada Trail Trek experienced by Dr Robyn
Dr Robyn experienced the Kokoda Trail Trek in the jungles of Papua New Guinea in late 2005.
(Dr Robyn) I can honestly say this has been a life-time experience I will never forget, very grounding and highly recommended to all Australians. The terrain was amazing, I felt like such a tiny speck in the jungle and at nature’s mercy for just about all of the 8 days of treking.
We walked up and down approximately 45deg hills for about 7 hours for 8 consecutive days. The leaches, sleeping with cockroaches and rats, unable to get clean or dry, unable to rest and recover properly before heading off again – these are just some of many, many challenges that are part of the Kokoda terrain and trek.
The people in the small villages are beautiful; they have nothing, material, as far as western society measures. But still they have the most beautiful of gifts, they are HAPPY and always SMILING. Some of the people in the villages are old enough to remember when the soldiers came through and absolutely destroyed their villages.
I have the absolute respect for the WWII soldiers who fought along the 100 km track in the most appalling conditions. Disease ridden, having a shortage of food, uniforms, medical supplies, living in the jungle – the heat, humidity, freezing at night, the tropical torrential rain. Even after crossing the Owen Stanley Ranges I still have no idea how these poor blokes did it.
Bumana War Cemetery was very moving, 3379 Australian soldiers are buried here. The average age was about 18. Many of the tomb-stones say “soldier unknown”.
Go to www.kokodatrekking.com.au to see some photos. I was on trek #68.
If you would like to read Dr-Robyn's daily notes for the 8 days of treking on the Kokoda Trail, please see the additional pages by clicking on NEXT below or by clicking on the links to each day at the top of this article.
Day 1 on the Kokoda Trail Trek
12 Oct 2005, 11:32 AM - log by the Kokoda Trekking Organiser
As I write this, a latest group of 4 are heading off to Kokoda where they will overnight at Rusty's Place and will start their walk bright and early tomorrow morning.
They will be welcomed in Kokoda by Russell Eroro's family and their guide Beven Evari.
Trekkers include:
Stuart M & Mich C, 2 policemen from Melbourne, Dr. Robyn Leeder a female doctor (chiropractor) and a Russell Spence who has had army experience but is now in the transport industry.
Last night when we met up with them, they all looked excited to be on their way to Kokoda and finally do what they have been training for...walk the Kokoda Trail.
Photograph: Trekkers on the steps of the Gateway Hotel this morning shortly before they were driven down to the airport to book in for their flight.
Day 1 on Kokoda Trail Trek - Dr Robyn diary
Wednesday 12th October 2005 - Trek Day One: Port Moresby to Kokoda
Up early 0530 to check out of luxury and begin our real adventure.
0830 flight to Kokoda. We were warned Air NuGiunea could be notoriously late. Therefore no trekking today as ETA is too unpredictable, and we want to avoid climbing the big test mountain in the heat of the day.
Bit of a laugh checking in at the airport, they made us all get on the scales and weigh ourselves as well as our luggage. Gee, I hope that extra egg and toast I scoffed at breakfast wasn’t too much!!
Gail (our trek organiser) was spot on, our plane did not leave until 1030, but no one seemed to be in a hurry. Once I got in to the tiny plane, I realized why we had our big weigh in. Tiny plane, 19 passengers and our luggage and we were almost overflowing. Three a breast, across the width of the plane, with a very narrow isle even I had trouble squeezing through.
Awesome 20 min flight to Kokoda along the Owen Stanley ranges which we were soon to traverse. Wow, bring it on!! Beginning to appreciate the majestic mountains. Flying low through valleys and narrow gaps between mountain ridges, this is skillful flying, impossible if slightly cloudy?? Looking down at the thick jungle canopies and yellow river beds.
Passed Myola, one of only 2 flat areas where the Aussies biscuit bombed their supplies to battalions during WW11. The other of course being Kokoda.
Kokoda airstrip, just a big flat patch of grass really. The landing was surprisingly smooth, much more so to the larger planes we are used to traveling in. People from Kokoda village out to welcome help their families off the plane with all of their goodies from their shopping trip to Port Moresby.
We meet our tour guide Bevan. Throw our back packs into the back of the open 4WD, wait for the plane to reload, take off to return to Port Moresby. Not sure how often this happens. Flight must also be subsidized, as I have no idea how these villagers could possibly afford it.
10- 15 min ride standing in the back of the 4WD to Russell’s block. Russell is owner of the trekking company. My God, it is stinking hot by now, I really need some shade.
Arrive at the block where we spend our first night, greeted by his family, some of whom do a traditional dance for us. Russell’s mum and dad, Peggy and Emmanuel have 17 children, and who knows how many grandchildren. They all live on this land in open aired huts. Peggy and Emmanuel remember the war when the Japanese came to attack.
We are shown to our hut, unroll our sleeping mats and get changed for a dip in the cool stream. Well, here I am sharing an open hut with 3 other blokes! I find my way to the loo (usual hole in the ground surrounded by bamboo) to put on my bikini.
Looking around at this toilet I remind myself to begin washing my hands with my antibacterial gel, gee I hope I don’t get sick on my adventure.
Of all the travel I have done, I cant imagine life getting much simpler than this in a rural setting. Washing in the river, children playing chasing the chickens which seem to be constantly crowing. Beautiful large iridescent blue butterflies landing on the hibiscus. Makeshift clotheslines between trees, huts built from palm trees, overhead shelter made from banana leaves. Vanilla bean trees, coconuts, greens, all sorts of healthy organic produce, cheeky chickens, happy faces.
Off to Kokoda main part to check out the war memorial- excellent photographs, the story retold.
The afternoon torrential rain has started, you know that tropical rain, moved in so quick, mist so thick the mountains were soon obscured. Very eerie place, timeless.
The wet season has officially begun, we are the last trek of the year due to the track being too dangerous to walk in the wet.
Quickly back to Russell’s block in between huge down pours. I am having loads of fun just hooning around on the back of the truck. Thick mud already, hope we don’t get bogged.
Fun day, but we are all feeling very anxious to start what we came here for.
I sense that the simple accommodation we have just shared is to be absolute luxury compared to what we are about to endure….. all quite nervous, as we get stuck into our day 1 ration packs.
Our food for the next 8 days consists of packet muesli, 2 minute noodles, fruit cake, biscuits, lollies, dry biscuits, a sachet of tuna, dehydrated beef, sometimes a chocolate bar, tea, coffee, hot chocolate sachet, sometimes a sweet custard pack, sometimes (if we are really lucky, a small tub of fruit), a packet of nuts and a dehydrated meal for dinner. This is supplemented by rice at night the porters must carry with them and cook for us. We are told we can purchase fruit from the villagers on the way. ( We discover this is not always possible, and usually only bananas available). Mmmmm mmmm I am already craving vegetables thinking about the next 8 days.
DAY 2 on KOKODA TRAIL TREK
Advanced Trekker - Update 13th October, 2005;
Trek 68
As mentioned yesterday by Gail, the group was up early this morning to start of their first day of walk as planned.
Though every single one of them looked nervous as this was their first day and off-cause they knew they’d be doing a lot of mountain climbing and another 7 days of walk, yet the excitement on their faces said it all, they’ve trained hard for it and this day has finally come to face the real thing.
The group was at Kovelo village when John Eroro called in to inform us, said they now head to Mudulu and to be followed by Hoi village next.
All trekkers are ok, doing good and moving well.
More of their updates will be posted up later on during the day.
One of the village houses at Mudulu village.
13 Oct 2005, 08:28 PM
Advanced Trekker - Latest on the trail; - Trek 68
The group has arrived safely up at Isurava village. They will camp up there tonight and tomorrow will make their next move to their next destination.
All trekkers are ok, have done really well up the test mountain, only Russell sprained his ankle, its not serious his ok and has made it up well to the top.
The test mountain is actually the very first mountain to climb, before you start the whole trail. It's a pretty big mountain to start off with that is why the porters and guides call it the test mountain. Their main reason is to see how fit the trekkers are on the first day and how well they can face the first challenge.
Deniki look-out point, is the half way mark of the test mountain.
Day 2 on Kokoda Trail Trek - Dr Robyn diary
Thursday 13th October 2005 - Day 2: Kokoda to Isurava
Terrible sleep, a bit paranoid about buzzing mozies. Up at 06h00. 06:30am, my porter Ross/ Rosco/Rusty (I am confused already) introduces himself to me. He repacks my backpack so that he can fit some of his stuff in. He tells me and my travel buddies that girls have no idea how to pack a back pack. OK Rusty go for it, I am happy for you to pack my backpack every morning!!! Amazing how little all the porters need for themselves for the long 8 day trek through the mountains!
We headed off finally at 0700, officially began our trek at 0730 from Kokoda. Already could feel the heat and humidity once in the thick jungle. About 1 hour fairly flat, then begin a steady climb, up, up up and up all day! About 7 hours of climbing. When you look at the map for the 200th time I can appreciate why this is called the test mountain. Some people pull out after this day, and some choose to hire a personal porter, Isurava being the last point you can get one.
I did really well, this is what I have spent many hours training for. But of course I am not carrying a full pack- about 6 kg or so today, the guys are carrying about 17kg. I am feeling a bit guilty the guys are struggling so much. I continually remind myself I weighed only 49 kg when I left home. And my chiropractor’s mind justifies my decision and tells me it would be very silly for a petite female to attempt to carry a full pack in these conditions. See how strong and confident I feel in a few days, I can always make a decision to carry my full pack…
I feel so sorry for the guys- Russell, Stuart and big Mick. I can hear their laboured breathing right behind me. Do I sound like that? My recovery at each short rest is excellent… so far so good.
Russell, a 58 y.o. a very fit ex triathlete, who has grown up on the beach, surfing, running up sand hills for training is falling behind us 3. He suddenly stopped, threw his back pack off and almost collapsed. He was experiencing severe chest pain. He was having an angina attack, his thighs were already cramping, he was confused and did not look very well. We all stopped., I made sure he had enough rest, loads of water and electrolyte, and some food I gave him some of my magnesium and we lightened his load amongst the porters. I am pretty worried by now, he recovered, and insisted on continuing, but it made us all take stock and reevaluate how the next 8 days were going to stress us to the max.
He seemed to cope much better for the rest of the remainder of the day.
My feet are OK, one small blister at back of left heel when I checked but no pain. Taped both heels and off again.
I had a great day, certainly a challenge but very enjoyable. Unbelievable thick jungle, chocos (green veg, not the soldiers!), pawpaws, palms etc. I love weaving in and out of the little spaces the tree roots make. I would never have believed how hard you have to concentrate just to place one foot in front of the other. You have to make yourself stop and take in what is around you. There were lots of creek beds to cross. The rocks were very slippery. My porter was always there to lend a hand if I needed help, but I am so determined to do this myself… I just hope that is not my undoing and I fall in the water.
A very heavy down pour started about ½ hour before we arrived at our camp. Out came the ponchos to cover our packs- which quickly become heavier if wet. I covered myself with my poncho as well, but 10 more minutes passed and I thought I would pass out from the heat. It is still so stinking hot, and very wet.
Arrived at Isurava, an incredibly simple village, much more so than Russell’s block were we stayed last night. There are about 2 families here from what I can gather. We stayed with Joey and Ewar- in their spare hut. I wish I hadn’t given away most of my gifts to the kids yesterday. The children here are in much more need. A few huts, a makeshift toilet and shower again. I cut my finger fairly deeply trying to hook up the shower- not as if I can yell out for help standing here starkers after a freezing cold wash with blood everywhere. Can’t seem to stop it bleeding. Getting all my clean stuff dirty already. But my highlight is that it does feel good to be semi clean. Clean but cold. Noticing the temperature drop quickly now we are higher up surrounded by mountains.
Today I cannot remember stinking so much, EVER!! My clothes are soaked with sweat and grim, muddy pants. I can’t be bothered rinsing much stuff as I know it will not dry. Anyway, I will be sweating profusely after 5 mins of walking tomorrow. I am glad I wore long pants to protect my skin from the jungle and hopefully all the creepy crawlies. I look at the guy’s legs and they already are covered in lots of scratches and rashes. Some parts of the track were very narrow, about 30cm in width, some as wide as 1 ½ m.
Torrential rain all night, it sounds great but I haven’t had a good night sleep yet. The roof was leaking near Stuart’s bed and he kept on having to shift all night.
DAY 3 on KOKODA TRAIL TREK
log by the Kokoda Trekking Organiser - They said they were unable to make contact on 14th or 15th due to heavy rain...so yes its a wet track at the moment.
Day 3 on Kokoda Trail Trek - Dr Robyn diary
Friday 14th October 2005 - Day 3: Isurava to Eora Creek
Awoke early to the cock a doodle doos again. I think Mick is ready to kill them. Up at 0600, walking by about 0720. Off to see the famous Isurava memorial. Cant wait to see this spectacular few I have read about and seen pictures of.
COURAGE, ENDURANCE, MATESHIP AND SACRIFICE. 4 special words engraved on large marble monuments. This is eerie and very moving. Saw Kingsbury’s rock. Where Bruce Kingsbury died instantly after saving his battalion’s headquarters by halting enemy advance.
He rushed forward firing his Bren gun from his hip through terrific machine-gun fire and succeeded in clearing a path through the enemy. Continuing to sweep enemy positions with his fire and inflicting an extremely high number of casualties... Private Kingsbury was then seen to fall to the ground shot dead by the bullet from a sniper hiding in the wood…
Kingsbury was the first to be awarded a Victoria Cross on Australian soil. His action inspired his mates to follow: Kingsbury’s section- ten men of the 2/14th Battalion- remain the most highly decorated in military history, winning a Victoria Cross, two Military Crosses, three Military medals and several Mentions in Dispatches.
Still some remnants of the war here- bullets, hand grenades, Jap helmets. Mortars.
Unfortunately what would have been a spectacular view was blocked by heavy cloud. The rain starts- all day torrential rain until about 1630. Physically doing well ups and downs, but I had a slip on a rock whilst crossing a creek. The water got into the top of my boot.
Lots of creek and river crossings today. Lots of squishy mud. The wet season has officially begun on our arrival! We are on the second last trek for the year, as the wet season makes the trek too dangerous. I lost concentration and you guessed it, I fell again. This time I managed to totally submerge my bum, back and day pack. I am OK but I am very angry with myself, and I am really wet.
Totally different in the rain, much harder. Even more intense concentration required, sometimes today I needed both hands hang onto roots and climb. In some places it is like walking or climbing along a very narrow slippery ledge, which falls away to a steep ravine. DON’T LOOK DOWN THERE, just watch my feet, slowly one step at a time, carefully placing our feet in between slippery tree roots.
Physically, this is challenging but no problems. Taking lots of photos are totally out of the question.
I was VERY VERY cold when I stopped walking. I hate the cold, give me heat and humidity any day. We stopped for morning tea, which also turned into a bit of lunch. We stopped for way too long for my comfort. I am dripping wet, the rain is teaming down, it’s cold and I cannot stop shivering and I could easily let myself get grumpy. I can appreciate how hypothermia could set in!
All the guys are doing well, I feel great when I am walking, just wet and miserable when we stop. I love walking up these beastly mountains, but much more care is needed coming down the very slippery slopes.
You have to carefully choose your foot position especially coming down hill or you could easily twist an ankle, fall before you know it, break something and you would have to be carried to a point where you could be airlifted out at considerable cost. I have quickly discovered you cannot turn around or look up and keep on walking or you will end up A over T. I have such an advantage over big Mick (6ft 3 in) coming down hills. My little feet fit into tiny nooks that he has no hope of fitting into. But it is quite funny really looking at all of our body types and watching how we approach things differently. A huge tree trunk may have fallen across the narrow track. Mick steps over them with his long legs, I try and climb over them, or sometimes it is much easier to duck under them.
We all attracted some leaches today, obviously because everything is so wet. No mozies- it is way too cold for them. Large crossing at the famous Eora Creek. The porters tied a rope from one end to the other to help us cross. Thank goodness I have great balance, but a bit more tricky because everything is very wet and slippery.
We arrived at the camp site at Eora Creek. No hut except a shaky looking small open shelter. We arrived here ahead of schedule. Torrential rain for the next 3 hours. Rusty helped me erect my tent in record time. We are saturated right through to the skin. I am shivering and my back is now aching from the cold. I need to get dry quickly. Threw my stuff into my tiny tent. The floor is already quite wet from when we erected it. I tried to dry it off before sitting down but the wind is blowing the rain up and under the fly, through the fly screen straight onto my only clean clothes. I had reservations about this tent B4 leaving home. Within 10 mins I am sitting in puddles trying to quickly repack my stuff into plastic bags and back into my back pack. A few more minutes and the inside of the tent is saturated, I have dry clothes on with are getting wetter by the minute. I am freezing, this is CRAP. I crawled out of my tent and asked Russell if I could share his tent tonight. There was no other alternative. Mick and Stu did not even bring a tent, and the porters will be huddled together and under a hut- so small and shaky which is supposed to be a shelter! The weather is still wild. The porters erected a tarpaulin for Stuart and Mick and cut of branches from the trees. They put the branches around the sides of the tarpaulin to try and keep some of the rain out. We made small fires under the shelter. Everything is wet. We are trying to find something to hang our back packs up as we are on a bit of a slope and the trenches keep filling up the water is running through the shelter. Russell’s tent is looking mighty good!! Everyone is assessing the priorities- get dry and warm first. Some of the poor porters climbed back down to Eora Creek filled up the pots with water to boil for hot cuppas and to prepare for dinner. As you can imagine they are really cold and wet. What do I have to complain about? I think about the poor WW11 guys. I feel like such a wimp. I would never have imagined things could turn so quickly.
Eventually the rain stops we eat and begin a long process of trying to dry out the most essential items- our boots and some of our clothes. I dry out my rain poncho so I can put it on again, I do not have enough warm clothes for this type of weather. I have on one cotton top, thermal longs and a thicker thermal top. After the porters helped sort us out a bit, I try and reorganize my stuff. Everybody’s stuff is everywhere. We all gradually stopped shivering and filled our bellies with snacks. I am feeling much more comfortable. The porters are absolutely amazing. They put themselves last all the time and they have really shown that today.
My crappy tent was re erected under the tarpaulin for Mick and Stu to use. It is still very wet inside but it is a better alternative for Mick and Stu who have nothing to sleep on except their roll ups on the wet ground. ( My tent is 1 ½ man, and Mick is 6 ft 3 in, plus Stuart!). I am very grateful to stay in Russell’s tent- which is squashy but definitely 5 star compared to everyone else’s sleeping arrangements.
Had dinner, stood around toasting our wet stuff (gee I would kill for a chair!), rinsed our plates, got organized for bed. Nothing else to do.
I am amazed that the porters can tell me with confidence that the light showers we are now having will not turn into anything heavier than that. How do they know?? They are always so right!! I feel very confident and safe in their hands.
Bevan (our official guide) came up to me to see if we could spare any first aid. He said Gail (one of the trek owners and organizers) did not give them any!! I cannot believe this. Here we totally isolated in the dangerous jungle, and the porters have no first aid training and no first aid kit. (Radio contact is only possible when on the top of a ridge in good weather.) I attend to a few cuts and will do their blister preparation in the morning. Some cannot even afford half decent socks, a few are in runners and 2 have no shoes at all!
BUT Greyford has a huge bandage on his shin. I ask him to take it off, I am scared at what I will find. He has a huge weeping suppurative (pus) messy cut. I am totally disgusted. I cannot remember ever seeing anything this bad except in text books. Apparently this happened 2 days ago. Can you imagine the possible consequences in these tropical conditions. It is so difficult to get anything clean. I supervise him whilst I teach him to dress it properly. I am worried about infecting myself as my cut finger is very open and looking pretty average. (I took my disposable gloves out of my first aid kit back at home as I needed to reduce my luggage to fit everything in.) I think Greyford should be on antibiotics. I will recheck tomorrow and everyday. I check with Russell, Stuart and Mick to see how much first aid we have between us. This is only day 3, what if we really need some of this stuff for ourselves. I try not to think about some of the infections some trekkers have picked up whilst on the Kokoda trail. Be positive, at least we have access to first class medicine back in Australia, these poor Papua New Guineans are lucky to have a nurse come and visit one a week due to their rural location.
I am beginning to realize what these porters do and feel for them. There is not enough food for them judging by the way they except whatever we don’t want from our daily food packs. All they get given is rice and dry biscuits to walk the Kokoda trail!! They are not even supplied with proper foot wear, no first aid training let alone a first aid kit! If they complain, they get the sack as there is always another young man to volunteer and take their place. These guys are the lucky ones to have a job. I am angry. I hope not all of the 28 trekking companies are like this. I settle down in a dry tent, very very grateful for all that I have.
AM- I am feeling fairly exhausted from not much sleep- about 1 ½ hours.
DAY 4 on KOKODA TRAIL TREK
No log by the Kokoda Trekking Organiser - They said they were unable to make contact on 15th due to heavy rain...so yes its a wet track at the moment.
Day 4 on Kokoda Trail Trek - Dr Robyn diary
Saturday 15th October - Day 4: Eora Creek to Templeton’s Crossing
Three steep climbs today. 1st- up for 2 hours then down a bit. 2nd- up for 1 ½ hours, then down a bit. 3rd- up for 1 ½ hours. Started to feel the physical challenge of going down hill today- my quads are beginning to feel alive. Uphill is just simply unrelenting, it doesn’t give up!
I didn’t put on any 80% DEET this morning. (I don’t want to think about this strong poison I am putting on my skin in an attempt to keep the bugs at bay. Most insect repellents contain only 16% DEET! - but hey we do what we must to prevent Malaria!) I am totally covered in these annoying tiny bugs. In my nose, in my ears, in my mouth. I relented and slathered myself with the poison after I couldn’t bare it any longer- it made absolutely no difference. These little bugs LOVE me and seems like only me- everyone else seemed to be doing OK. I have started to get a sore belly, I feel like I could get the runs…..
Today we passed several fox holes where the Japs and the Aussies would position themselves in an attempt to stay below the surface of the ground. We were slowly walking along and from out of nowhere we heard what sounded exactly like machine gun fire. We couldn’t believe it. Apparently a gun bird was making this racket. I wonder whether they adapted this sound because of the war. It sounded so real. I don’t think I want to think about being in this jungle worried about being shot at. Amazingly brave men.
Arrived at Myola (near Myola junction) and Rusty kindly helped me erect my tent under some shelter, before the rain set in.
DAY 5-8 on KOKODA TRAIL TREK
log by the Kokoda Trekking Organiser - Update 17th October, 2005; - Trek Organiser - Trek 68
Around 4:30pm Monday afternoon, the group guide Beven gave us call here at the KTL base to inform us of the group’s condition and their latest update.
“We are now at Menari village, all trekkers are ok and doing fine. There have been no problems or injuries, we’ve all walked well and have safely reached our campsite Menari village. Our food is ok, we’re not short of anything, what we have here will take us all the way out. At this time we’re experiencing showers,” reported Beven.
21 Oct 2005, 07:54 PM - Kokoda Trekking Organiser
Only a few more steps to go before reaching the finish line at Ower's Corner - all four trekkers walked up the last few steps together. On their right is Ross Eroro whose brother Russell is my business sub contractor.
Day 5-8 on Kokoda Trail Trek - Dr Robyn diary
… more to follow…..Photos to be added