Day 1 on the Kokoda Trail Trek
12 Oct 2005, 11:32 AM - log by the Kokoda Trekking Organiser
As I write this, a latest group of 4 are heading off to Kokoda where they will overnight at Rusty's Place and will start their walk bright and early tomorrow morning.
They will be welcomed in Kokoda by Russell Eroro's family and their guide Beven Evari.
Trekkers include:
Stuart M & Mich C, 2 policemen from Melbourne, Dr. Robyn Leeder a female doctor (chiropractor) and a Russell Spence who has had army experience but is now in the transport industry.
Last night when we met up with them, they all looked excited to be on their way to Kokoda and finally do what they have been training for...walk the Kokoda Trail.
Photograph: Trekkers on the steps of the Gateway Hotel this morning shortly before they were driven down to the airport to book in for their flight.
Day 1 on Kokoda Trail Trek - Dr Robyn diary
Wednesday 12th October 2005 - Trek Day One: Port Moresby to Kokoda
Up early 0530 to check out of luxury and begin our real adventure.
0830 flight to Kokoda. We were warned Air NuGiunea could be notoriously late. Therefore no trekking today as ETA is too unpredictable, and we want to avoid climbing the big test mountain in the heat of the day.
Bit of a laugh checking in at the airport, they made us all get on the scales and weigh ourselves as well as our luggage. Gee, I hope that extra egg and toast I scoffed at breakfast wasn’t too much!!
Gail (our trek organiser) was spot on, our plane did not leave until 1030, but no one seemed to be in a hurry. Once I got in to the tiny plane, I realized why we had our big weigh in. Tiny plane, 19 passengers and our luggage and we were almost overflowing. Three a breast, across the width of the plane, with a very narrow isle even I had trouble squeezing through.
Awesome 20 min flight to Kokoda along the Owen Stanley ranges which we were soon to traverse. Wow, bring it on!! Beginning to appreciate the majestic mountains. Flying low through valleys and narrow gaps between mountain ridges, this is skillful flying, impossible if slightly cloudy?? Looking down at the thick jungle canopies and yellow river beds.
Passed Myola, one of only 2 flat areas where the Aussies biscuit bombed their supplies to battalions during WW11. The other of course being Kokoda.
Kokoda airstrip, just a big flat patch of grass really. The landing was surprisingly smooth, much more so to the larger planes we are used to traveling in. People from Kokoda village out to welcome help their families off the plane with all of their goodies from their shopping trip to Port Moresby.
We meet our tour guide Bevan. Throw our back packs into the back of the open 4WD, wait for the plane to reload, take off to return to Port Moresby. Not sure how often this happens. Flight must also be subsidized, as I have no idea how these villagers could possibly afford it.
10- 15 min ride standing in the back of the 4WD to Russell’s block. Russell is owner of the trekking company. My God, it is stinking hot by now, I really need some shade.
Arrive at the block where we spend our first night, greeted by his family, some of whom do a traditional dance for us. Russell’s mum and dad, Peggy and Emmanuel have 17 children, and who knows how many grandchildren. They all live on this land in open aired huts. Peggy and Emmanuel remember the war when the Japanese came to attack.
We are shown to our hut, unroll our sleeping mats and get changed for a dip in the cool stream. Well, here I am sharing an open hut with 3 other blokes! I find my way to the loo (usual hole in the ground surrounded by bamboo) to put on my bikini.
Looking around at this toilet I remind myself to begin washing my hands with my antibacterial gel, gee I hope I don’t get sick on my adventure.
Of all the travel I have done, I cant imagine life getting much simpler than this in a rural setting. Washing in the river, children playing chasing the chickens which seem to be constantly crowing. Beautiful large iridescent blue butterflies landing on the hibiscus. Makeshift clotheslines between trees, huts built from palm trees, overhead shelter made from banana leaves. Vanilla bean trees, coconuts, greens, all sorts of healthy organic produce, cheeky chickens, happy faces.
Off to Kokoda main part to check out the war memorial- excellent photographs, the story retold.
The afternoon torrential rain has started, you know that tropical rain, moved in so quick, mist so thick the mountains were soon obscured. Very eerie place, timeless.
The wet season has officially begun, we are the last trek of the year due to the track being too dangerous to walk in the wet.
Quickly back to Russell’s block in between huge down pours. I am having loads of fun just hooning around on the back of the truck. Thick mud already, hope we don’t get bogged.
Fun day, but we are all feeling very anxious to start what we came here for.
I sense that the simple accommodation we have just shared is to be absolute luxury compared to what we are about to endure….. all quite nervous, as we get stuck into our day 1 ration packs.
Our food for the next 8 days consists of packet muesli, 2 minute noodles, fruit cake, biscuits, lollies, dry biscuits, a sachet of tuna, dehydrated beef, sometimes a chocolate bar, tea, coffee, hot chocolate sachet, sometimes a sweet custard pack, sometimes (if we are really lucky, a small tub of fruit), a packet of nuts and a dehydrated meal for dinner. This is supplemented by rice at night the porters must carry with them and cook for us. We are told we can purchase fruit from the villagers on the way. ( We discover this is not always possible, and usually only bananas available). Mmmmm mmmm I am already craving vegetables thinking about the next 8 days.